New-Yorker-blog-karenrobbins

Guests were given the option of a long walk (2.5 hours) or a short one (2 hours), the difference being in the loop that would take you past the albatross if they were there. We opted for the long walk and were well rewarded for it. 

Along the way, we came across lizards and iguana and a mockingbird. It was always imperative to watch your step not only because of the boulders but because often there was an iguana tail or a small lizard darting by.

About a third of the way into our walk, we came across the albatross. The first sighting was in the sky and it was followed by two birds right in the middle of our trail.

The waved albatross is the largest bird in the Galapagos. While they are good sized, they are not as large as the royal albatross we saw in New Zealand whose wing span reaches 9 feet. The flying birds we saw here had a wing span of around 6 feet. Their bodies are about three feet in length.

The albatross live on Espanola (Hood) Island from late March through December and their return each year is only to breed. We saw several mating behaviors and quite a few nests already built. The male/female pairs are monogamous and they are usually together until death. They produce one egg and it is incubated for two months. One of the nesting females was kind enough to shift just a bit so that we could observe the reddish colored egg beneath her.

The Albatross will raise their young chicks here teaching them to fly for their migration back to cooler waters in January when temperatures warm in the Galapagos and food becomes more scarce.

Like the other animals we had observed so far, the albatross were unconcerned with us and let us pass quite close by them--even the ones nesting. That gave opportunity to admire their intricate markings and take some good close up shots.

Reaching the southern end of our journey, we stood in awe of a shoreline of green cliffs pounded by the surf. We rested a few moments and just drank in the scenery as well as the sea birds flying through the air.

A little further down the trail, we could tell we were near the blowhole. Thunderous rhythmic noise grew louder and louder. We came up a slight rise and found the sea powerfully spitting up through a hole in the rocky shoreline below. The water spouted up to 50 feet in the air misting everything around it and downwind from it.

Along a section where we climbed down closer to the shoreline, we found a flock of Nazca Boobies. They were nesting in the rocky area near the shoreline. Unlike the other species of Boobies, they have a set mating period and a unique complication called sibilicide or sibling murder. The female Boobie lays a couple of eggs but about five days apart therefore they hatch about five days apart. If the first one survives, it is of course at an advantage in size and strength to the new born and can overpower it to get to the food it needs for survival. Often this is accomplished by pushing the younger one out of the nest. It adds a whole new meaning to sibling rivalry, doesn't it?

Our path became very grassy after we turned away from the rocky beach and the Boobies. It made walking an adventure with the boulders and the ever present worry of stepping on wildlife. Little did I know, thank goodness, that some of that wild life might be a snake or two.

By the time we got back on board the Celebrity Xpedition, we had little time to do more than shower and dress for our briefing which preceded dinner. The nightly briefing at 7 told us of the next day’s excursions and allowed time for us to sign on for what we wanted to do.

In the dining room, the menu spread before me was swimming before my eyes. I was so tired I’m not sure of what I ate. I barely made it to our stateroom, brushed my teeth, and crawled into bed before my eyes closed for the night. The rocking of the ship woke me several times during the night but I was so exhausted, I went right back to sleep. I needed the rest. The next day would be another great adventure.

We had been briefed the night before on how to do a wet landing—a lot less intimidating than it sounds. The zodiac pulled up to where its nose rested on the beach and we scooted toward the front, and when it was our turn, turned and swung both feet over the side (minus shoes) and slipped down into ankle deep water. Since this was a beach walk, most of us opted to keep our shoes off. I figured this was pedicure time as the sand would slough off winter’s calluses.

The zodiac had rested just between two groups of sea lions who were undisturbed by us. They lifted their heads and looked as if to say, “Hey guys, the tourists are here again.” Our group of 16 led by our naturalist, Alexis, dropped our snorkel gear for later on the upper beach and gathered for another reminder to not touch the wildlife and to not get between the sea and the sea lion who looked at the water as his escape route if he felt threatened.

But wait! Someone forgot to tell the sea lions! As we stood there one rather large sea lion ambled up and slid between the legs of a couple of us. So much for the 8 foot rule (stay 8 feet from the animals).

Alexis explained seven different ways sea lions were different from seals the most obvious being that the sea lions have external flaps over their ears. 

Galapagos sea lions are different than any other in the world and are only found here in the Galapagos Island or on Isla de la Plata, which is a small island just off the coast of Ecuador. The males can reach about 900 pounds when full grown and the females average about 244 pounds. Male sea lions declare their spot on the beach and fend off any other males to establish a harem of sorts. He mates with the females in his group, some of whom may already have a pup. The female is ready to mate again about two weeks after her pup is born. 

Young pups find their mothers and vice versa by the guttural sound they make. Then when they are in close proximity, the mother can smell the young one and recognize that it is hers. Only then will she allow the young pup to nurse. The pups nurse until they are about a year old—some longer if the mother allows it.

Meanwhile, Papa sea lion patrols the water’s edge to be sure that the young pups don’t venture out too far and become dinner for any predators in the area—most specifically sharks. This is a group effort on the part of the males. They take turns patrolling and often go for long spells of time with no food to get the job done.

After a sufficient time without food, the males will congregate in what is called a bachelor colony while other males take over the guardianship. The bachelors use their off time to eat, rest, and soak up the sun. There is no rivalry here unless a female decides to enter in. Then it could be no holds barred.

The pups in the family groups are of course the cutest. They curl up to sleep and are curious enough to want to venture up to you and look at you with their wide soft eyes. The eyes of the sea lion are special in that tears are produced to protect them more from the elements. Perhaps that’s why they look so vulnerable.

As we walked down the beach, I could see an area that looked speckled with black objects. I thought at first it was a larger colony of sea lions but the nearer we got, the more I realized it was an outcropping of lava rocks. Suddenly, as we neared one large one, wet from the sea, we could see bright orange colored Sally Light Foot crabs climbing all over it and between them, a host of marine iguanas.

The iguanas are vegetarians and the crabs, scavengers, so they got along just fine. The colors of the crabs were phenomenal. There were fine lines of yellow mixed into the orange and blues and turquoise. Patterns emerged in their coloration as you examined them closer. Alexis mentioned something about how they got the name Sally Lightfoot but there was no way to take notes and by the time I got back, I'd forgotten. Of course with Alexis' sense of humor it may have been just a funny comment.

The marine iguanas were not what I call a beautiful animal but then beauty is in the eye of the beholder. There were some red tones on their backs that reminded me of molten volcanic lava running between and under lava that has cooled. Perhaps that made them indicative of the Galapagos Islands since the islands are all born of volcanoes. The iguanas have huge sharp claws which enable them to climb the slippery rocks and cliffs on some of the islands. They eat algae off the rocks in the water tearing and scraping it off with their sharp teeth. They were very benign creatures just mostly basking in the sun. As they swam in the water they used their tails much like a crocodile or alligator does to propel them along.

When our walk was done, we donned our dive skins and wet suits and wandered between the sea lions to the water. Unfortunately, the surge and the waves did not make for good snorkeling. The water was clouded with sand and particles kicked up by the wave action. We saw some fish but they were more like shadows. Disappointed, we gave up and opted for a return to the ship. Watching all those sea lions lolling in the sun had made us tired too.

A hop and a twist to pull our feet over the side of the zodiac and it wasn’t long before we were on our way back for lunch aboard the Xpedition. The crew was ready for us and the food and pampering was much appreciated.