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The Robbins Expedition Team that traveled to the Antarctic included my husband's twin (you aren't seeing double), his wife and my mother-in-law. You can notice in the picture not only the red parkas we received from the trip but also those infamous inflatable life jackets worn on the zodiacs.

After our stop in Half Moon Bay, the ship set course for the Drake Passage and once again we anticipated rough seas. We were again delighted to weather the crossing without much trouble and even caught a glimpse of Cape Horn before heading into the Beagle Channel and docking at Ushuaia.

Our flight back to Buenos Aires was not planned for another day which gave us time to explore the area around Ushuaia which is part of the Patagonia area known for its beauty. And beautiful it was. The park we visited abounded in spectacular scenery with snow capped mountains in the distance. It was also overrun by rabbits that had been introduced into the area perhaps a century before and had overpopulated. The guide said something about not knowing what they were going to do with so many. Hmmm. I would have suggested rabbit stew.

On a cruise of the harbor and Beagle Channel, we saw a large group of seals and sea lions. Penguins had invaded a beach area. These were Magellan penguins. Added to all the others, I think we had seen four different kinds of penguins over the course of the trip.

Our flight back to Buenos Aires was again aboard a 747 but this time we were only in first class, not the upper class-upper deck elite. . .well, you get the picture.

There are still many cruise ships that venture down to the Antarctic peninsula in the month of January but I don't believe there are many who stop as we did to enjoy the penguins. It is my understanding that the countries who care for the preservation of the natural resources of Antarctica are trying not to let tourism interfere with the pristine condition of the area. We humans leave a big imprint everywhere we go--especially when so many don't take the precautions to leave things as they find them.

If you are truly interested in an "expedition" such as ours, do some research on the web. You are sure to find something that suits your budget and dream. Although a warm fireside chair with a HD TV showing Frozen Planet isn't bad either. At least you can't smell the guano.

Half Moon Island was our last stop before heading back across the Drake Passage to return to Ushuaia, Argentina. The crescent shape of the island gives it the name and it was loaded with a whole bunch of penguins called Chinstrap. They did look a bit military strutting around and I wrote in my journal that if we could understand penguin language, they were probably shouting out, "Look sharp boys! The tourists have arrived!"

With their helmet like markings, they were like characters from an old war movie. Perched on rocky precipices all around us, they would raise their beaks to the sky and chortle constantly. They were without a doubt the noisiest bunch of penguins we encountered.

Paradise Harbour, our next stop along the cruise of the Antarctic Peninsula, must have been named when the sun was shining brightly. Our day there gave us all sorts of weather and it changed faster than Cleveland weather does. But when the sun shone, the white snow was almost blinding.

Waterboat Point inside the harbor was the site of a Chilean station. It was manned, we were told, by new recruits--an initiation of sorts. Maybe Paradise Harbour was more a satirical name coined by the recruits who had to spend time there when the weather turned ugly.

Gentoo penguins were all over the place. No one told the penguins to stay behind the orange guide ropes that visitors were to follow. They merrily shuffled in and out among us. We had to always look behind us if we were going to step back. You never knew if you had one tailing you. The doors to the buildings in the station had to be kept closed to be sure the birds wouldn't get inside and make a cozy nest.

At the Chilean station there was a small gift shop and the opportunity to send a postcard stamped from Antarctica. Unfortunately the line was way too long. There was to much to see to waste it standing in line.

Again our time on shore was entertaining but it was also a time to see all the sides of nature. As we were heading back to our zodiac, we passed by a skua, a large brown bird that preys on the penguin young. It had found its meal for the day and was enjoying it.

Aboard ship, as we waited for all the other groups to have their turn on land, we watched other denizens of the cold south, seals. There were basically two kinds there: leopard seals who were meat eaters and crab seals who fed off of sea food. Two seals, said to be crab eaters, were lolling on a large piece of floating ice and posing nicely for pictures when all of a sudden a penguin popped out of the water and landed on the other end of the ice. He waddled past a little rise in the iceberg and suddenly spotted the seals. He jumped straight up in the air and did a 180 while airborne. As soon as he landed, he flopped to his belly and slid like a shot into the water again. Apparently, if you are a penguin, you don't stick around long enough to discern whether the seal is a leopard or a crab eater.
 

And the last shall be first. After being last in line the evening before, we were the first zodiac group in the morning to land ashore amidst a welcome party of white and black tuxedo-feathered friends. They chortled at us, lifting their beaks to the sky and letting their gullets vibrate to emit their song of welcome--or warning.  


Exploration leaders had gone ahead of us and laid out paths that were to be followed so no one would disturb the penguins. We carefully followed the bright colored ropes on the ground that were our guide and stopped here and there to enjoy the antics of our hosts. Some had little furry offspring at their feet and others waddled off to the water to feed and/or bathe. No matter how guano covered a penguin was, returning from the water he would be spotlessly clean and absolutely beautiful.


We glimpsed a newly hatched baby--a late arrival--still partially in the egg as a mother penguin lifted her belly and readjusted her position. Some parents had two young ones to look after. Soft gray feathers made the young look furry and cuddly. The smell would cancel the cuddly part though.


Along the beach, we came upon some whale bones that had been assembled there for exhibit. Bleached rib bones reached five fee into the air. At one time, this was a great whaling area.


All too soon our time on shore was over and we returned to the zodiac landing area. Again I say this was an impressive crew on our ship. They also had to scrape the bottoms of our boots and spray disinfectant before we could return to the ship. It was all done with good humor and we were appreciative.


That evening there was a glorious sunset with colors more rich and pure than I have seen anywhere. Summertime in the southern hemisphere meant that sunset was around 10:45 p.m. and sunrise at 4 a.m. If it ever completely got dark, I didn't see it. Snuggled into bed at night, I only saw the backs of my eyelids.

Our first adventure in the zodiacs was at Cuverville Island. I think this was more a practice run so that the passengers would experience the organized routine of the excursions we were to take later. Passengers were divided into groups. Those traveling together were assigned to the same group. At a set time before our boarding the zodiac, we were to meet in a designated lounge and wait to be called. Our group was the last one on the schedule for the afternoon and as the sun dipped lower, I feared we might be canceled because of darkness.


We weren't canceled but between the clouds and the position of the sun, it was a bit dreary for taking pictures. Still, it was quite an adventure sitting in an inflatable boat and drawing near enough to the penguin colony on the island to be able to see them. The next day we would get to see them up close and personal.

The sun shone brightly the next morning, bleaching the snow and ice with a blazing white as we approached the Lamaire Channel. Our captain announced that because of the excellent conditions the Marco Polo had ventured farther south than it ever had before. However we still had not reached the Antarctic Circle.

We donned our parkas and watched the majestic icebergs that floated by our ship. They resembled giant white sculptures of contemporary art. The ice in the bergs was so pure and cold it actually looked blue--a phenomenon we had witnessed some of the glaciers in Alaska.


Mid-morning the Marco Polo turned and set course for Port Lockeroy on Weincke Island. Just before noon, we anchored in the bay. A change in the wind let us know that there was definitely a colony of penguins there. The smell of guano (the term for sea fowl excrement) greeted us. While the snow and ice is the purest white you can imagine, the home of the penguin colony colors it a dark orange.


Guano or not, we were excited to learn that our group that was last the day before would be first this afternoon. We finished lunch and scurried to gather our parkas, pants, boots, gloves, cameras, scarves. . .the list seemed long. Hearts beating quickly, we waited in the lounge for the call to the zodiacs all the while remembering: right hand through the life jacket first.

After crossing the Drake Passage, we entered the calmer waters of the Bransfield Strait and saw our first iceberg. It looked majestic in its whiteness against the deep blue of the ocean. And yes, when you see your first really big iceberg you do have thoughts of the Titanic. But we never came close to it.

Mostly snow covered, the rock formations of the island looked surreal in the mist that enveloped them. I assumed the misty look was caused by some of the thermally heated areas of the water. There is not much on the island except for several species of lichen, a variety of sea birds and a small colony of penguins. 

We sat in the theater and listened to the leader instruct us as to the procedure we would follow in donning life jackets for the zodiacs. Since we would all be in large red parkas that made it a little more clumsy to move, the crew would help us. The life jackets for zodiac use were inflatable. A crew member would hold one up for us. We were to put all loose items we were carrying in our right hand, pass our left through the armhole, then transfer to the other hand and pass the right arm through. The crew would insure the jacket was secured properly and we would be on our way. It was quite efficient once everyone learned their right from their left.

All 500 of the passengers who were to board the Marco Polo in Ushuaia, Argentina, for the cruise to Antarctica boarded a chartered 747 in Buenos Aires. We speculated that either a timely booking or the luck of a draw snared us seats in first class in the upper section of the 747. Reclining seats with footrests that were as comfortable as the La-Z-Boy back home made our plane ride to Ushuaia very cozy indeed. Added to that was the special treat of a first-class lunch and we were half way to heaven.

Ushuaia turned out to be a small town resembling a frontier town like you might find in Alaska. On our return trip, we be able to explore more. We boarded the Marco Polo and began to get oriented to our home for the next eight days. As we sipped coffee on the open deck next to the empty pool, the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us enough to shed the light jackets we were wearing. How cold would it be on this cruise we wondered? While it was January, it was summer in this part of the world. Still, we'd seen pictures of snow covered decks on some previous cruises. But while we had the sun, we sat back and enjoyed.

The other question uppermost in our mind was how rough would the Drake Passage be? It was notoriously one of the worst weather areas in the world and reports of high seas and winds and the havoc wrecked on some ships make us a bit unsettled. Shortly after dinner, we were to know. The ship began to rock and roll and I'm not referring to the music on board. We medicated and went to bed.

Actually while we did not experience the "Drake Lake" as they refer to a calm day at sea, we did not have extreme weather. Our day at sea was spent listening to some of the naturalists tell us about the adventure we were embarking upon. On board were 18 experts in all sorts of areas that included history as well as flora, fauna, and ice formations. The ship which usually held a little over 800 passengers was only carrying 500 for this trip. The reason: labor intensive care as we visited the peninsula and restrictions on how many were allowed to actually set foot on Antarctica.

In the middle of the afternoon, we found red parkas on our bed. They would be protection against the elements as well as easy way to spot people on shore. It would be tough to get left behind by mistake. Anyone scanning the shore would certainly see a red jacket against the white snow.

The ship's roll became more familiar as the day wore on but of all things. . .that second night at sea was to be formal night. It would be a test of balance and fortitude.

As part of our pre-cruise tour before setting off for Antarctica, we chose to visit Iguazu Falls which is on the border between Argentina and Brazil. We arrived early in the day and spent it exploring the falls area. Part of our tour was spent walking out on a boardwalk and taking in the view from the top. While it was an interesting perspective, the view in no way compared to the beauty of the falls as seen from below.

Iguazu Falls is actually made up of 200 separate falls that come together in spectacular fashion. There were lots of trails to roam that gave many different views of the falls. Some allowed you to get close to the rushing water and others let you enjoy the immensity of the cascading water falls.

The more adventurous of our expedition elected to go for a ride into the falls area on a small boat. The less adventurous of us watched from above.

Debate raged on about whether the falls should best be viewed from the Argentinian side or the side in Brazil. Since there was a $100 charge for a visa to go into Brazil for a half day trip, we opted to enjoy our Argentinian view.

After a short flight back to Buenos Aires, we spent the evening anticipating our flight to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina where we would board our ship and sail for Antarctica.

In 2006, we took an amazing journey to Antarctica. The recent series on Discovery, Frozen Planet, has been fun to watch because it has shown areas of Antarctica and the Arctic (which we have touched briefly) in seasons of the year other than when we would visit. The next few days, I'd like to share with you some of the adventure.

Our trip was booked with the Marco Polo (a ship that belonged to Orient Cruise Line which was sold to Norwegian and then tried to resurrect in 2008 but due to the economy, has been delayed). We opted also to take advantage of the pre-cruise tour which began in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Our hotel was right across from a steak house that opened early to accommodate tourists who didn't like dining at 9 or later as is the custom there. Since we'd heard about the amazing steaks Argentina is so famous for, we made reservations. Our party included Bob's twin brother and his wife and their mother. The restaurant was nice as I recall but the thing that sticks in my mind was the look on all of our faces when our orders arrived. Between the five of us, there was almost a half a cow on that table! The steaks were huge. And sadly, there was no way to keep them if we'd gotten doggie bags. Okay--I do need to say that it was also the best steak I've ever had.

Our tour of Buenos Aires took us to La Boca, probably the most colorful area of the city as the corrugated steel structures are all painted in bright colors. We also visited the square where thousands gathered to hear Evita Peron's speech and then we visited her tomb. There is a page on my website devoted to Buenos Aires and our time there. If you are interested in more detail, hop on over. For now, I'm closing my eyes and trying to remember the taste of that steak. . .